I can’t seem to get enough Pinot Noir, whether from Burgundy, Germany, California, Italy, New Zealand, New York’s Finger Lakes, or elsewhere — I want to try them all.
Which takes me back to France, not to Burgundy, the world’s Pinot Noir capital, or even the Loire Valley, where Pinot is the red grape in Sancerre and neighboring appellations.
This time, I’m exploring the Pinot Noirs of Alsace, the relatively small, narrow region in eastern France that borders Germany.
German Pinot Noirs, also known as Spätburgunders, can be awesome, as I reported a while back. And so can Alsatian Pinot Noirs, which are produced in a variety of styles from grapes grown in a wide range of soils on the slopes of the Vosges mountains — many of them farmed organically or biodynamically. Most are fruit-driven and unified by a minerality that infuses the wines.
Whereas Pinot Noir was a footnote decades ago, production of the grape has soared over the years. And so has quality, thanks largely to climate change, as Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson note in their “World Atlas of Wine.”
“What used to be a pretty meagre brew,” they write, “has been transformed by climate change from tart, dark rosé to deep-crimson, even fleshy, well able to take barrel-age and reminiscent of red Burgundy.”
While the wines are more generous than they used to be, they are medium-bodied, with alcohol in the moderate 13 percent range and ample acidity — you won’t find a California-like fruit bomb among them.
Almost all the wines of Alsace fall under the broad “Alsace” appellation, with Pinot Noir the only red grape permitted. And unlike many other French appellations, Alsace allows wineries to specify the grapes — Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, among others — on the front labels, so you know precisely what’s in the bottle.
As notable Pinot Noirs from regions like Burgundy, Oregon, and California command prices that put them beyond “everyday” drinking, Alsace offers a range of exciting and affordable wines that deserve more attention.
Here are eight of the best Pinot Noirs from Alsace:
Domaine Allimant-Laugner Alsace Pinot Noir 2023
The grapes are grown organically in clay-limestone soils, which yield wet-stone aromas along with black cherry, red plum, and fig notes. There’s a touch of orange and hints of earth and smoke as well. Like most Alsatian Pinot Noirs, lively acidity gives the wine a refreshing lift.
Price: $20
Buy This Wine
Domaine Weinbach Clos des Capucins Alsace Pinot Noir 2023
This is a world-class Pinot Noir from one of the great Alsace producers with grapes sourced from the renowned, biodynamically farmed Clos des Capucins vineyard. The wine invites Burgundy comparisons but at a fraction of the price of top Burgundies. This is one of those wines that constantly evolves in the glass: Concentrated red and dark fruit notes — raspberry, strawberry, blueberry, cherry cobbler — emerge and are the wine’s centerpiece. The fruit is accented by hints of fennel seed and earth, all combining in a lushly textured wine that will evolve for years to come.
Price: $67
Buy This Wine
Domaine Christian Binner Alsace Pinot Noir 2023
Freshness is the hallmark of this delightful Pinot Noir. The grapes are grown organically, fermented with native yeasts, and aged in large wooden vats known as foudres, keeping the oak influence minimal. The ripe dark and red fruit notes, including strawberry and pomegranate, are punctuated by a touch of black pepper. It’s Pinot Noir on the wilder side, and hard to stop pouring.
Price: $36
Buy This Wine
Famille Hugel Alsace Pinot Noir ‘Classic’ 2023
This may be one of the best alternatives to hard-to-find good red Burgundy under $20. With slightly bitter red and black fruit notes, wet-stone minerality, and a touch of vanilla, it drinks above its price tag and is a great one to have on hand as your “house” Pinot Noir.
Price: $18
Buy This Wine
Paul Blanck Alsace Pinot Noir 2024
There’s excellent complexity in this Pinot Noir from another well-known Alsace producer. Very ripe plum, spicy cherry, and blueberry notes are accented by touches of vanilla, smoke, and braised meat. I even picked up a touch of mint on the finish.
Price: $21
Buy This Wine
Les Vins Pirouettes Alsace Pinot Noir ‘Michel’ 2022
From a collective of winemakers from across Alsace who farm organically and biodynamically, this notable Pinot Noir shows dark fruit notes and a bit more “weight” than some, though the overall impression is one of freshness. Blackberry and blueberry aromas and flavors are framed by a moderate tannic structure with hints of powdered cinnamon and pencil shavings.
Price: $23
Buy This Wine
Christophe Mittnacht ‘Terre d’Etoiles’ Alsace Pinot Noir 2024
This delicious Pinot Noir is light in color and lighter on the palate with cherry, raspberry, and cranberry aromas and flavors along with orange and vanilla touches — all supported by a nice mineral texture and refreshing acidity. The grapes are grown biodynamically in clay and limestone soils and the wine is aged in older foudres, so the oak influence is minimal.
Price: $22
Buy This Wine
Trimbach Alsace Pinot Noir Réserve 2022
From one of the best-known producers in Alsace, this Pinot Noir has good complexity with plum and blackberry notes along with hints of braised meat and cedar. It’s another memorable Alsatian Pinot Noir that’s widely available.
Price: $20
Buy This Wine
The article 8 of the Best Pinot Noirs From Alsace appeared first on VinePair.