Unlocking the secrets of Nikka Whisky: Exclusive Interview with Diego Araud

Japanese whisky enthusiasts will recognise Nikka – one of Japan’s most respected and long-standing distilleries.

Founded in 1934 by Masataka Taketsuru, who was inspired by Scotch whisky, Nikka has spent 90 years perfecting its craft. At this year’s Decanter Fine Wine Encounter (DFWE) in Singapore, Diego Araud, director of La Maison du Whisky, will lead a tasting of five unique Nikka expressions, showcasing the distillery’s innovation.

Here Ch’ng Poh Tiong catches up with Araud ahead of his DFWE appearance.

Japanese whisky has taken the world by storm in the last few years. Why has this occurred?

I think there are a few reasons Japanese whisky has completely exploded in the past 15 years. Actually, Japanese whisky is not something that just started 20 years ago although it has taken a good five years to be on everyone’s lips. Japanese whisky has been around for about 100 years. And that’s what we’re celebrating this year with the 90th anniversary of Nikka Whisky, going back through the history of this wonderful producer.

So, it’s actually a much older craft than what most people think. It’s true it has been a massive success in the past 10, 15, maybe 20 years. I think the reason is because overall whisky has been doing very, very well all over the world during that time. American whiskey is taking a little bit longer, but it’s exploded in the past few years as well. We see Irish whiskey coming back on the map. It’s been a really great time for the spirit.

As it started being a bit more international, we started seeing some whiskies making their way through competitions and winning awards. Those whiskies were really, really well made by people who care about quality that also has a certain subtlety. What they were looking for in the taste of whisky is the balance and, in the blending expertise, very fine expressions. Eventually the world just discovered something of super high quality that they’d never seen before. People were laughing maybe a couple of years ago, like, whisky is not meant to be made in Japan. It’s meant to be made in Scotland or in Ireland. And two years later, it’s like, well, have you tried Japanese whisky? It’s the best in the world. And of course, some very good marketing placement. Hibiki really had a breakthrough when featured in the movie Lost in Translation

When it comes to Nikka, there was this show in Japan talking about the life of Masataka Taketsuru. So Nikka exploded as well in Japan at the same time it was getting really hyped up outside Japan. So altogether a lot more consumption, a lot less stock. With globalisation, in the past 20 years, Japanese culture has attained a kind of cult status. In Singapore, it might not be as obvious as in other parts of the world, but in France, Japan was, and still is, very exotic.

What are the differences and similarities between Japanese and Scotch whisky?

I would say it’s very similar to Scotch whisky. Kind of follows exactly the same guidelines of the definition of Scotch. The raw ingredients are the same, the production is pretty much the same. So is the ageing. They abide by the same rules.

If you blind taste a Japanese whisky and a Scotch whisky, it’s very hard to tell the origin. It’s not exactly like wine and it’s not just Japanese and Scotch whisky. I think as long as you’re talking about the same style of whisky, such as a single malt, for example, it’s very hard to tell its origin. Except for a few expressions that might be typical of a producer. But otherwise it’s really hard to tell. So, in that sense, Japanese and Scotch whisky are made the same way, using the same ingredients. One of the men behind Japanese whisky being Masataka Taketsuru whom we will be talking about during the masterclass, he really brought his craft from Scotland. That’s where he learnt how to produce Scottish whisky.

What he knew was to produce a whisky that is quite similar to Scotch whisky. There are differences though.

The approach of Japanese people as a whole is very perfectionist, always looking for the best possible balance. At this stage when they learn about whisky, it was already in the modern time. There were scientists behind Masataka Taketsuru so that means they really had an understanding of what made whisky and how to make the best possible whisky.

Eventually they really perfected the craft, like finding the exact balance, finding the right degree of alcohol, and the right combination of flavours. Plus with their culinary culture, they have a very developed palate. They could go into the fine details of finding the expression that would be perfect for them. Taste, however, is always very subjective. That’s also the reason Suntory and Nikka went separate ways. Masataka Taketsuru wanted to remain very Scottish in style. Something a little bit stronger, a little bit heavier, oilier. And Tori-san wanted to make a whisky that was a bit lighter, a bit more floral, and a little bit easier for the Japanese palate. Altogether as a whole, Japanese whisky is well known for being very balanced, a bit lighter, a bit more subtle.

What discoveries will participants make at your masterclass of the six Nikka whiskies?

I hope they will gain a deeper understanding of Nikka’s history – that’s the main focus of our discussion. I also hope they will gain more insight into the broader world of whisky. I think for true connoisseurs, there will be a lot of subtlety that they will experience. But maybe for those more in the wine industry, who may think of the world of whisky as one big thing, they may discover it has so many little doors that can open to so many incredible stories – how raw materials, production methods and aging process, all have an impact on the final product. On top of talking about Nikka, we will be talking about whisky as a whole.

And then obviously, there will be a little surprise in this masterclass, which is something very exclusive that I would imagine no one has yet tried. It will be very, very valuable.

Buy final tickets for the Nikka Whisky masterclass

Watch: A Message from Diego Araud

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