Regional power: Extended geographical mentions on labels

Last month, producers of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano announced the introduction of 12 subzones into production regulations. Named Pievi (singular: Pieve) after the area’s historical parishes, these subzones reflect a broader trend seen in many wine regions toward subdividing territories into increasingly smaller, more circumscribed and precisely defined geographical units.

First it was Barbaresco in 2007, followed by Barolo in 2010 – arguably two of Italy’s most celebrated fine wines – to spearhead the use of single vineyard names, there referred to as ‘Additional Geographical Mention’ (Menzione Geografica Aggiuntiva or MGA). Then was the turn of Soave, Roero, and, in a similar guise, Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore with its Rive. The concept also took hold beyond Italy, Rioja’s Viñedos Singulares being one of the most prominent examples in Europe.

These developments may differ in the specifics, yet they all follow a similar approach: a push to create a higher-tier and often more pricey class of wines, shaped in some form according to the Burgundian pyramid model, which places single vineyards at the top of the quality hierarchy.

These moves offer the significant benefit of exciting ‘terroirists’ on the lookout for unique wines whose labels can clearly prove their sense of place. But they also risk alienating other wine drinkers, who may feel overwhelmed by increasing numbers of denominations, subzones and single vineyards. Barolo and Barbaresco alone have nearly 240 labellable crus combined, Soave has around 33, and Conegliano Valdobbiadene has 43. Franciacorta, one of Italy’s premier traditional-method sparkling wine regions, is planning to introduce a staggering 134, all in an area roughly 10 times smaller than Champagne. And these represent just a fraction of Northern Italy.

‘In Piedmont, we probably know all the denominations [and sub-denominations] of our region – though I say “probably” because even I would have trouble recalling them all,’ admits Francesco Monchiero, the president of Piemonte Land of Wine, an organisation that represents Piedmont’s 14 wine consortia.

Vins de Bourgogne, which oversees the very region inspiring the spread of the single vineyard format, acknowledged this challenge over two decades ago. In 2002, it introduced the requirement of additional compulsory labelling terms, with Vin de Bourgogne appearing on bottles whatever the level of the appellation, or Grand Vin de Bourgogne in the case of Village, Premier Cru and Grand Cru appellations.

The decision stemmed from the recognition that, while indicating crus on a label can provide a tangible help for wine lovers to identify terroir-specific expressions, most drinkers around the world may be unfamiliar with their names and bypass the wines as a result. Offering a broader regional indication on the bottle provides them with a more recognisable geographical origin, with Burgundy’s strong vinous reputation offering the handy added incentive to give the bottle a go, too.

Burgundy’s move did not go unnoticed in Italy. In 2021, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano itself allowed all winemakers within the denomination to add the mention Toscana to their labels. According to the president of the local consortium, Andrea Rossi, this change helped boost sales by an additional 20% since its implementation.

A label you can’t refuse

In Sicily, reliance on a broader regional indication is proving a successful strategy. Having only relatively recently embraced quality winemaking, few of the island’s denominations are truly significant and known internationally. Most, from Contessa Entellina to Riesi, remain virtually unheard of outside the island. As a result, many winemakers have long sidestepped smaller, lesser-known denominations in favour of the more globally recognised Sicilia DOC.

‘The DOC Sicilia can be advantageous because “Sicilia” is a well-known brand,’ says Gabriella Favara, the sixth generation of leading Sicilian family-owned winery Donnafugata. ‘Sicily is widely recognised as a tourist destination for its extraordinary artistic, cultural and natural heritage, as well as for its highly appreciated gastronomic tradition. So, associating wine with Sicily can provide an additional hook that enhances the wine’s appeal, particularly in the eyes of non-locals who may not be familiar with our smaller regional denominations.’

Similar to Burgundy, in Sicily, the use of a broader regional mention doesn’t necessarily conflict with sub-regional identities. In fact, DOC regulations permit combining the name Sicilia with a sizeable group of 10 regional denominations, from the highly regarded Etna to the less popular Eloro and Monreale. This helps all drinkers easily identify the wine’s origin on a map, while also enabling passionate wine lovers to dig deeper into the bottle’s unique territorial identity.

An ‘extended’ geographical mention

Last month, Piemonte Land of Wine announced that the region’s consortia had finally recognised the opportunity presented by broader geographical mentions, agreeing to allow the name ‘Piemonte’ to appear on any label of wine from the region. Such a historic decision gives producers from any of its many denominations, particularly the more obscure or unheard of, the opportunity to leverage Piedmont’s renown as a premier fine wine region.

‘We’ve realised that the proliferation of denominations has led to a fragmentation of territories that has become somewhat difficult to communicate, especially when stepping outside one’s production area,’ Monchiero explains. ‘Some people in Tokyo or New York might know what Barolo refers to, but who knows about Freisa di Chieri or Pinerolese?’

Called the ‘Extended Geographical Mention’ (Menzione Geografica Allargata, a clear nod to the MGAs), the new labelling term is expected to be introduced before the end of the year.

‘Perhaps this wouldn’t work in a less renowned region,’ continues Monchiero, ‘but in Piedmont, producers have everything to gain from it. If you don’t know what Ghemme is, but see Piedmont on the label and are somewhat interested in wine, it’s likely you’ll think that it comes from a region that produces wines of exceptional quality.’

Indeed, broader regional geographical mentions are to the benefit of wine drinkers. While taking nothing away from the label’s potential to express a terroir-specific origin, they add clear geographical pinpoints for those who might be unfamiliar with the world’s countless denominations, subzones, and single vineyards. And with Barolo and Barbaresco among the highest-priced Italian fine wines, it may become easier to discover delicious alternatives at much more accessible prices too.

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