Querol grapes at Familia Torres, whose technical
team found the variety
in Penedès in 1998.
As a result, Spain is home to a huge wealth of varieties ‘frozen’ in time, often in remote locations outside the perimeter of current designations of origin (DOs).
Crop specialisation and consolidation caused a considerable reduction in genetic diversity, reflecting a global pattern in recent decades. Many grape varieties and clones/biotypes were lost as producers followed market trends. Varieties with lower yields, longer growing seasons or those that were difficult to ripen – highly valued attributes today, ironically – were pulled up to make way for easier-to-farm, higher yielding and international counterparts (such as Cabernet Sauvignon or Chardonnay).
Return to the roots
But a revolution is underway. Spain is at an exciting moment in its history, with globally travelled, highly experienced individuals returning to their origins, eager to raise the profile of their regions and grapes. Against the backdrop of climate change and saturated markets, with many consumers hungry for new wines, the recovery of this valuable genetic heritage has become all the more relevant.
Forward-thinking producers such as the Catalonia-based Torres family began these efforts over three decades ago, having already recovered several once-forgotten varieties including Querol, Selma Blanca, Garró, Gonfaus and Moneu. The latter two are of particular interest due to their drought resistance and capacity to withstand high temperatures, attributes shared by many of the grapes that Castilla y León’s ITACyL agricultural technological institute has been working to recuperate since the year 2000.
Having had the opportunity myself to make wine with some of these grapes, I’m sure that Puesta en Cruz, Mandón (Garró) and Tinta Jeromo, among others, will give us plenty to talk about. Just as the red variety Cenicienta has already done in DO Rueda, where it was recently approved as a high-quality red counterpart to the white Verdejo.
Adapt & thrive
In Lleida, western Catalonia, Lagravera is a small project led by Pilar Salillas in partnership with INCAVI (Instituto Catalan de la Viña y el Vino). It has retrieved 27 Spanish grapes, most of which are from vineyards planted between 1889 and 1935. Meanwhile, in the Canary Islands, the Rovira i Virgili university has identified and propagated more than 40 different grapes; many have not yet been vinified due to their scarcity.
Although viticulture is becoming ever more challenging, I am confident that by safeguarding Spain’s wealth of ancient native varieties we have the tools to cope with the testing times ahead. Their ability to adapt and to naturally preserve acidity and aromas, will allow winemakers to keep producing the fresh and complex wines that I and many other wine lovers are increasingly excited about.
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