When going out to a bar or restaurant, there are a number of red flags that can put a damper on the whole experience. On the other hand, some signals can indicate good times ahead, whether that be a friendly server, complimentary bread service, or a stellar wine list.
But what makes for a standout wine program? Rather than scanning dozens of pages in a binder-sized menu, wine professionals can typically determine the quality of a list by singling out one specific section or bottle. For example, if a wine program offers wines from hard-to-find producers or off-the-beaten path grape varieties, that shows that the wine buyer put significant effort into curating the selections.
Curious which regions or winemakers sommeliers look for? We asked 10 top wine pros what bottles are a green flag when they sit down with a wine list to find out.
The wines that are green flags, according to sommeliers:
Philippe Tessier Romorantin
Anything from Weiser-Künstler
Champagne Agrapart
Veyder-Malberg ‘Veisslinger Bruck’ Riesling
Red Tail Ridge sparkling wine
Antonelli Trebbiano Spoletino
Island wine
Anything from Jean-Pierre Robinot
Anything from Arnot-Roberts
Philip Lardot ‘Der Hirt’ Riesling 2021
“Green flags on a wine list for me are spotting lesser-known varieties and benchmark regional producers. Philippe Tessier’s Romorantin, for example, is such a gem — the producer’s skill combined with this rare Loire varietal is a true find. Fabio Gea in Piedmont works with indigenous grapes, crafting wines that are deeply expressive of their terroir. And Il Torchio in Liguria brings a fresh, contemporary approach to an established family estate, with coastal varieties that are simply a joy to drink. Seeing wines like these on a list tells me the place values authenticity and a bit of adventure in their selections.” —Shanna Nasiri, owner, With Others, Brooklyn
“For me it’s not any bottle in particular, but it’s a green flag if I see that the wine list is made up of a majority of small, artisan, organic growers. It shows that the wine list is curated by someone who goes beyond the norm and what’s easy. But if I had to pick a specific bottle, it’d probably be anything from Weiser-Künstler. Their wines are brisk, challenging, and hard to get a hold of. So anyone carrying them has an open-minded palate and is in the know.” —Jordan Chen, wine director, Yang’s Kitchen, Los Angeles
“Coming from a program focused on white wine at Smithereens, this is going to sound ironic, but I inadvertently scan Champagne selections to surmise opinions or glean the direction of the wine program. Champagne tends to be right at the beginning as well, so this is similar to when you are browsing at a bookstore or library, those first sentences are what we use to evaluate whether or not to take a chance on a book. Producers such as Agrapart, Pierre Peters, Pierre Paillard, Moussé, and Bérêche inform me that the buyer is in tune with producers that aren’t just the bigger houses in Champagne (although I would never say no to Krug or Cristal). On the flip side, I appreciate a balance of grower and Grandes Marque houses on a list. From that list of producers, I usually will go with Agrapart, but most of the time I will ask for guidance, because the thrill of tasting something new is special.” —Nikita Malhotra, partner and beverage director, Smithereens, New York City
“Whenever I see a bottle of Veyder-Malberg ‘Veisslinger Bruck’ Riesling, I always go for it. It’s one of my favorite Riesling producers, and the wines are just always stunning and pristine. Vintage to vintage I am never disappointed with this wine. The location of these vineyards in Wachau, Austria, are difficult to farm with frost often being an issue, so to get such elegant and stunning wine really showcases the winemaker’s ability with this bottle. An absolute must for me.” —Evelyn Goreshnik, wine director, Found Oyster, Los Angeles
“My husband and I go out a lot and we are always thrilled to try a new place in Chicago or when we are traveling, but we definitely look at the wine list before we decide to commit to dinner. We look for small-production wines that focus on organic farming practices; we are privileged enough to know most of those wines that are allocated and distributed in the Chicago market. We love sparkling wine, so we look for some of our favorite producers from the States and Europe like Red Tail Ridge in the Finger Lakes, Raventos from Penedès, Spain, and Champagne producers Egly-Ouriet and Lelarge-Pugeot.” —Tonya Pyatt, owner, Webster’s Wine Bar, Chicago
“As a general tip, I think seeing indigenous varieties is a green flag. This could mean the person who is putting the wine list together is interested in each region they are representing and how they can bring that place to you through terroir. An example: If I’m at an Italian restaurant, I’d like to see less Cabernet and more Sangiovese. Antonelli in Umbria has been around since the 1800s. The current generation, twin sisters, are focusing only on Trebbiano Spoletino and Sagrantino — indigenous grapes — and experimenting. They are using skin contact with the Trebbiano, using cement and amphorae like their ancestors did, and utilizing single vineyards to realize the expression of terroir. I really like the Vigna Tonda and Attone bottlings.” —Charlotte Mirzoeff, general manager and wine director, Forsythia, NYC
“A green-light bottle for me would be any kind of island wine! Here at Little Water, where the focus is on coastal cuisine, they just make sense. Mineral-rich soils, proximity to the ocean, these wines create the perfect seafood pairing. Brimming with salinity and overtly expressive, I am constantly drawn to them. Not only as a wine to pair with food but also as a wine to share with friends. An easy choice!” —Maggie Cook, wine director, Little Water, Philadelphia
“I would say a green-flag bottle on a wine list for me is anything from Jean-Pierre Robinot. If the curator of the list cares enough to have Robinot, you can be confident the rest of the list will be on point as well.” —Spenser Payne, owner, Neighborhood Wines, Boston
“For me, a ‘green flag’ doesn’t have to be the most hard-to-find, ‘how the hell did you get that’ wine; it’s a smart pick that helps me understand a buyer’s perspective, taste, and style and how that may align with mine. The first wines that came to mind as ‘green flags’ are the wines of Arnot-Roberts in California — or any similarly small-production California winemakers making elegant, distinctive wines with more than just the conventional Cali varieties, and using thoughtful farming practices. While not necessarily the flashiest bottles, they are always delicious and not allocated, and therefore accessible to include on most lists and affordable for the quality you get. ” —Dora Grossman-Weir, manager and sommelier, Tolo, NYC
“A green-flag wine for me would be Philip Lardot ‘Der Hirt’ 2021. Wow, another ‘wine professional’ talking about Riesling, but this time it’s a bit different? Phillip and Rosalie are up to something special in the far reaches of the Mosel in Germany. Old, ungrafted vines from a single vineyard, fermented and aged in old barrels, resulting in something that may remind drinkers of France’s Jura or Burgundy, but make no mistake, this is something new. When I see a bottle like this on a menu or shelf, it communicates something deeper than giving a sh*t about the planet, what’s in our wine, and who’s making it. It tells me that someone is curious and excited about the new, and the old, languages of wine and they’re excited to share that with their guests.” —Zack Eastman, owner and wine director, Easy Does It, Chicago
The article We Asked 10 Sommeliers: What Bottle Is a Green Flag When You See It on a Wine List? appeared first on VinePair.