What makes New York “New York”? Unreliable subways, window air conditioners, questionable smells, glitzy Art Deco buildings, yellow taxis — sure, all that tracks. But there’s one aspect of the city you can’t get anywhere else, no matter what anyone might claim: an authentic New York slice.
Frankly, it’s inimitable. The crust is thin, crispy, foldable. The sauce is applied with restraint, and the fresh mozzarella is the pinnacle of ooey-gooey. Whether enjoyed spontaneously (“Wanna grab a slice?”) or in the late-night, neon-fueled hours, pizza is about as New York as it gets. And though it’s impossible to replicate, it’s got plenty of room for experimentation, which is exactly what Noam Grossman, co-founder and CEO of Upside Pizza and residential pizzaiolo rule breaker, aims to do.
With the help of Brooklyn natives and owners Eli and Oren Halali — of New Yorker-approved 2 Bros. Pizza fame — Upside is redefining the New York slice, one ingredient at a time.
Lofty Goals
Born in Englewood, N.J., Grossman grew up in restaurants. From high-end farm-to-table eateries to fast-casual joints, he accumulated a wealth of experience, all of which was funneled into his true passion: pizza.
“I love everything about pizza,” Grossman says. “It’s a very nostalgic food.” When the opportunity arose to work with the Halali brothers, he jumped at the chance. “2 Bros. is synonymous with New York City. We already knew they made the best dollar-slice. We came together to make the best slice, period.”
Defining the New York Slice
To understand the achievement that is the New York-style slice, we have to look back at the early 1900s when Italian immigrants brought over the Neapolitan pizza, a simple combination of basic dough, ripe tomatoes, sliced mozzarella, fresh basil, and olive oil.
This blueprint was adjusted in 1905 when Gennaro Lombardi opened America’s first pizzeria in Manhattan’s Little Italy neighborhood. The simple raw-tomato-and-salt sauce was swapped for one made with cooked tomatoes laden with herbs; discs of fresh mozzarella were exchanged for grated, low-moisture mozzarella; toppings proliferated.
For Grossman, a New York-style slice starts with a circular pie with a good char on the bottom. “There’s a nice bit of crust that you can hold on to like a handle,” he adds. “Thin, crispy, coming off a round pie — I think that should be everyone’s definition. Beyond that, it’s open to interpretation.”
Don’t Mind If I Dough
Every Upside pie begins with sourdough made using only natural fermentation — a rarity in the slice game. For the uninitiated, that means that instead of buying commercial yeast to let the dough leaven and rise, Upside feeds a simple sourdough starter comprised of just flour and water. “The starter we use is probably 7 years old at this point,” Grossman adds.
In addition to making the pizza more digestible thanks to its lower gluten content, the dough packs an added dose of flavor: “If I offered you a slice of sourdough or a piece of white bread, I think we both know which one you would choose,” he says.
Ingredients and Integrity
At Upside, every ingredient matters. The kitchen crew stretches the mozzarella from curd five to six times a week. Locally sourced products are integrated whenever possible; Grossman is on a first-name basis with his Sungold tomato farmer, who visits Upside frequently. While this dedication to locality is admirable in its own right, it’s even more impressive considering the volume at which Upside operates.
“We’re selling tens of thousands of slices of pizza a week,” Grossman says. “It’s not an easy thing to do, even when you’re doing a more controlled operation. When you take it to this scale, it becomes a challenge in and of itself.”
Even with the added stresses that come with dedication to uncompromising quality — more expensive, tricky logistics — it’s not up for debate. “Standards are not something I’ve ever been willing to sacrifice,” he says. “I would imagine that 99 percent of the slices in the city are less expensive to make than mine. We stay priced at $4, which is very reasonable. And it’s not something I’m ever going to change to create more of a margin.”
‘Cold Wine, Hot Pizza’
A commitment to high-caliber ingredients and affordability is an attribute Upside shares with Francis Ford Coppola Winery, which sources its grapes from the best vineyards across California. Like Grossman, the winery prides itself on its connection with farmers. To date, it has nurtured long-standing relationships with over 150 grape growers.
When it comes to pizza and wine pairings, Grossman’s philosophy is simple: “Cold wine, hot pizza.” More specifically, Grossman recommends a slice of Upside’s White Wine Lemon Cream (WWLC) alongside a glass of Francis Ford Coppola Diamond Collection Chardonnay. Sautéed mushrooms, cream sauce, mozzarella, Parmigiano Reggiano, lemon zest, parsley, and black pepper unite to create an unexpected pie.
“This pizza could convert any mushroom hater. It’s just so balanced.” Grossman says. The acidity from the sauce is tempered by dairy. Mushrooms contribute earthy umami, and black pepper and parsley add brightness.
To unlock even more complex flavors, try it with a glass of Francis Ford Coppola Diamond Collection Chardonnay. Creamy vanilla, crème brûlée, and melon flavors enhance the WWLC’s richness without becoming overpowering. When enjoyed side by side, “eating becomes a moment,” Grossman says. “It becomes an experience.”
Life’s Simple Pleasures
Luxuriating in small moments is something Upside Pizza and Francis Ford Coppola have in common. When the legendary director set out to create the expansive winery, he envisioned a “wine wonderland” where visitors could “celebrate the love of life.”
And what better way to indulge in life’s simple pleasures than with a slice of hot pizza and a glass of cold wine?
Love pizza and wine? Check out Coppola’s “Perfect Your Pizza” competition for more.
This article is sponsored by Francis Ford Coppola Winery.
The article A Slice of Life: How Upside Launched a Fresh Era for New York-Style Pizza appeared first on VinePair.