Until recently, I hadn’t tasted Gavi wines for quite some time and couldn’t remember when someone poured me a glass or even mentioned Gavi.
These days, the tiny Gavi appellation, in the southeast part of Piedmont near the border of Liguria, doesn’t have the buzz it once had as a go-to Italian white wine — overshadowed by the ubiquitous Pinot Grigio or the white wines of Sicily that have gotten so much attention in recent years.
But Gavis can be beautiful, lighter white wines, as I was reminded in tasting a broad sampling of them. They deserve new attention.
The wines are produced in and around Gavi, with some labeled simply Gavi, others called Cortese di Gavi in reference to the grape, and still more labeled Gavi di Gavi or Gavi del Comune di Gavi. The latter two signify that they are produced in the township of Gavi rather than the surrounding area, and are considered the top wines, though I’m not sure the distinction makes that much difference based on my tastings.
All are made from the Cortese grape grown in the area’s mineral-rich clay and marl soils and are crisp, fruity, and floral. Fermentation and aging usually take place in stainless steel without exposure to oak. The wines have mild aromas and come alive on the palate.
In their book, “Vino Italiano: The Regional Wines of Italy,” Joseph Bastianich and David Lynch note that, like Soave, Gavi “is a light, refreshing white that became extremely popular in export markets (especially Germany and the United States), which in turn spurred the rise of large-scale, industrial producers and lots of watery wine.”
While I found many of the wines listed below delicate and subtle, they were far from “watery.”
They are natural pairings for fish and shellfish (the region is close to the Ligurian Sea), white meats, and Asian-inspired foods. And with alcohol levels in the 12 to 13 percent range, they are also delightful as aperitifs.
“Gavi is usually a wine of freshness and simplicity,” Bastianich and Lynch observe, “which may not be fashionable but is often pleasurable. For some reason, simple has become a dirty word in Italian wine, even as the simplicity of Italian cooking is praised up and down.”
Beyond their “simple” pleasure, there’s something else that is attractive about Gavi wines: Most of them are excellent values, with many in the $15 to $20 range.
Here are eight of the best wines from Gavi:
Tenuta Il Bergo Gavi del Comune di Gavi 2023
This estate-bottled wine has a rich, mineral mouthfeel with Meyer lemon, pineapple, and red apple notes and a touch of cream on the leesy finish. The grapes are grown in the prized Rovereto zone of Gavi.
Price: $15
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Giordano Lombardo Gavi del Comune di Gavi 2023
Lots of minerals and white flowers in the aromas and flavors of this crisp wine, with green apple, apricot, and lemon the dominant fruits. The minerals continue on the long finish. An exciting wine.
Price: $20
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La Mesma Gavi del Comune di Gavi 2023
Floral and saline notes combine with white peach, Meyer lemon, and a hint of strawberry in this delicious Gavi made from organic grapes. (This is the winery’s yellow label wine, not to be confused with a white label that’s a bit more expensive.)
Price: $20
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Villa Sparina Gavi del Comune di Gavi 2023
This wine exhibits the rich side of Gavi. Notes of lemon tart, brioche, orange zest, baking spices, and a hint of cream start to emerge as it warms up a bit. These concentrated flavors are all supported by refreshing acidity. It’s also a great value at about $15 or so.
Price: $15
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Produttori del Gavi ‘Il Forte’ 2023
From the large Gavi cooperative, this under-$15 bargain may not have the complexity of some, but it’s an easy-drinking quaffer that will remind you of summer. Its yellow and green apple and white peach notes are accented by hints of baking spices, candied orange, and minerals on the long finish.
Price: $13
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La Giustiniana Gavi del Comune di Gavi ‘Terre Antiche’ 2023
This exceptional estate-crafted wine shows saline and lemon-lime notes on the first taste, then apricot and orange spice flavors emerge. Lively acidity combines perfectly with a softer, vanilla layer on the finish achieved from a few months of lees aging.
Price: $21
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La Raia ‘Pleo’ Gavi 2023
Flinty minerality and spiciness are the hallmarks of this notable Gavi, with stone fruits and green apple skin notes. It’s another one with a very long finish and shows a hint of ginger at the end. As with all these wines, the flavors come to life when not too cold.
Price: $20
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Stefano Massone ‘Masera’ Gavi 2023
This widely available Gavi is another great under-$15 value with a chalky minerality on the nose that carries over on the palate. Melon, pear, orange, and a hint of vanilla round out the flavor profile. There’s a subtle saline note on the finish.
Price: $14
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The article 8 of the Best Wines from Italy’s Gavi appeared first on VinePair.