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11 of the Best White Wines From Italy’s Piedmont

The red wines of Piedmont are among the most famous in Italy. The Barolos, Barbarescos, and others made from the Nebbiolo grape — along with those from the Barbera and Dolcetto varieties — define the northwest region and are coveted by wine lovers.

Far less familiar are Piedmont’s white wines, which can also be outstanding and worthy of more interest. Perhaps the best known is Gavi, made from the Cortese grape and deserving of renewed attention, as I suggested in a column not long ago.

But Piedmont has a lot more to offer beyond Gavi, including wines from indigenous grapes like Arneis, Timorasso, and Favorita, the local name for Vermentino, as well as familiar varieties like Riesling and Chardonnay, which actually has a long history in Piedmont.

Despite growing awareness, Arneis remains a sleeper grape in Italy, often showing a seductive range of aromas and flavors. Like most white wines from the region, it’s grown in the large Langhe area of Piedmont, especially in Roero, where the top denomination is Roero Arneis, while other Arneis wines are labeled Langhe Arneis. Similarly, Favorita, Chardonnay, and Riesling are found under the Langhe DOC.

As for the Timorasso grape, it was largely abandoned in Piedmont until a couple of decades or so ago, when a warming climate started to make it easier to ripen. Now there’s been a renewed interest in the grape, and many wonderful examples can be found on the market stateside.

Anthony Lamonaca, co-founder of Golden Vines, a small importer of Italian and French wines, says “there were the white wines — and red wines — that people knew: Soave, Gavi, Pinot Grigio.” But beyond them, he notes, “hundreds of other varieties have been discovered in every region of Italy. Piemonte is no exception. There’s always an opportunity to try something new. And I think that’s the best part of Italian wines, that there’s such a variety.”

Even the Chardonnays he imports from Piedmont, two of which I’ve included on the list below, represent different takes on a grape that is so familiar. Most of the producers of these white wines also make the more famous red wines of the region.

Here are 11 of the best white wines from Piedmont:

Viberti Colli Tortonesi Timorasso Derthona 2023

The ancient and indigenous Timorasso grape is getting new attention, and rightly so. This beautiful example is from the Colli Tortonesi denomination in the east of Piedmont near Gavi, where Timorasso is the top variety (Derthona is an old name of the grape). With a rich, waxy mouthfeel, it’s dominated by stone fruit notes — white and yellow peach and apricot — along with hints of orange, honey, and cream. Superb.

Price: $37
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Ciabòt Berton Langhe Favorita ‘Alissa’ 2024

This is a fruit-forward take on Favorita, as Vermentino is called in Piedmont, with notes of honeydew melon and white peach followed by hints of strawberry, orange, and herbs. With a supple mouthfeel and light minerality, it’s crisp and easy to drink. Perfect as an aperitif. (The ‘23 vintage is currently available.)

Price: $25
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Fletcher C24 Langhe Chardonnay 2024

I’m not the first to wonder what a winemaker by the name David Fletcher is doing in Barbaresco. But it was an “addiction” to Nebbiolo that brought Fletcher from his native Australia to Italy to focus on the grape and others, including Chardonnay, which produced this delicious small-production wine. It’s beautifully balanced with notes of fresh and stewed pear, orange zest, and pink grapefruit with hints of vanilla and butterscotch from aging in mostly used oak barrels. It’s a refreshing wine with a lingering, mineral finish.

Price: $54
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Pecchenino Langhe Riesling 2023

This is an excellent Riesling that further shows the depth of the white wines of Piedmont. Aromas and flavors of white peach and pineapple are accented by hints of baking spices as well as Riesling’s signature flint and petrol. A wet-stone minerality and a saline note come across on the long finish.

Price: $32
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Roagna Langhe Bianco 2023

This is an unusual and memorable Chardonnay. It’s actually 90 percent Chardonnay and 10 percent Nebbiolo — yes, the red Nebbiolo grape, which gives it a slightly more tannic quality. Notes of red delicious and green apples, pineapple, and orange are accented by hints of powdered cinnamon and nutmeg. There’s a chalky minerality on the extremely long finish. The wine ages in neutral oak for two years, so the wood influence is subtle.

Price: $28
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Castello di Neive Langhe Arneis ‘Montebertotto’ 2024

Dry and refreshing with floral and stone fruit aromas and flavors, along with touches of lemon-lime and almond. Like most Arneis wines, this one is fermented in stainless steel tanks. Frequent bâttonage, or stirring of the lees, provides more texture and a richer mouthfeel. A light and interesting alternative to Pinot Grigio.

Price: $25
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Michele Chiarlo Roero Arneis ‘Le Madri’ 2024

Aged for three months in stainless steel tanks, this notable Arneis shows lovely orchard fruit aromas and flavors, including apricot and white pear. With alcohol at a modest 12.5 percent, it’s light on the palate with subtle herb and mineral notes. Try it as an aperitif or as a perfect accompaniment to simply prepared fish dishes.

Price: $24
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Malvira’ Roero Arneis 2024

Bursting with flavor, this is another first-rate Roero Arneis with a slightly richer mouthfeel and delicate aromas and flavors of melon, pear, and honeysuckle. The fruit is accented by almond and herb notes on the long, mineral finish.

Price: $20
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L’Armangia ‘Pratorotondo’ Chardonnay 2024

There’s a solid acid foundation to this Chardonnay, which keeps it refreshing and relatively light despite a good deal of oak. White peach, green apple, and pear notes combine with brioche, baking spice, and mineral hints. L’Armangia is in the Asti area and also produces red Barbera d’Asti wines.

Price: $23
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Fratelli Alessandria Langhe Favorita 2024

A struck-match aroma is the first thing that distinguishes this superb Favorita, infusing its apricot, peach, and pineapple notes. The fruit is framed by a mineral texture that extends through its long finish. At $20, it’s an absolute steal. If Piedmont’s red Nebbiolos are the “power” wines of the region, whites like this show its delicate side.

Price: $20
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La Spinetta Colli Tortonesi Timorasso Derthona 2024

Another top example of Timorasso, this one shows nice complexity with notes of quince, white peach, and orange. The fruit is accented by hints of thyme and saline, and there’s a touch of cream on the finish. One of the impressive things about this and other Piedmont whites is their complexity and depth combined with modest levels of alcohol.

Price: $24
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The article 11 of the Best White Wines From Italy’s Piedmont appeared first on VinePair.

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